PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAThe folks behind St Jude’s Cellars have a real knack for this kind of thing. They brought us the Panama Dining Room, a sanctuary of food and wine in classy surrounds, and they have done the same here. The cavernous space has been cleverly utilised to incorporate a walk-in wine room, bar and restaurant. The bottle shop is defined by stark black metal wine racks, among which you can choose a wine to take away, or – for $15 dollars more – to drink in the safety of the wine cage, at the bar or as an accompaniment your meal.
The food here is simple, designed to be shared, and very good, with an emphasis on quality ingredients, small producers and sustainability. Formerly of Three, One, Two, Danielle Rensonnet’s dishes are unfussy and well presented. The menu simply lists ingredients so you can be surprised by the delicate balance of flavour in dishes such as baked orzo, fetta, cinnamon, tomato and zucchini flowers, served in a little terracotta pot, or by the cauliflower cheese which is comfort food embodied. Other, larger dishes might include lamb with wild mushrooms and pine needle oil, or grilled chicken with bread sauce. Dessert offerings are succinct but fabulous. This venue has combined several strands of hospitality yet St Jude’s does them all well and offers a great experience whichever you choose.
Angela Costanzo, July 2008
