LOCATIONMidway along the Glen Osmond Road restaurant strip.
PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIAEstablished in 1965, the Pagoda is now South Australia’s oldest Chinese restaurant with Chef Peter Tiong at the helm since 1971. He cooks with the freshest of produce and a commitment to healthy eating for patrons. Thankfully, the decor is not as you as you would often see in Chinatown haunts. This restaurant is an eastern suburb stalwart so decorative pieces, such as the nine gold dragons which run the length of one wall across a fiery red background, are refined. It’s good to see the dragons made the move with Tiong when Pagoda moved a few years ago. They make for regal company as you work your way through the menu.
Limited entrees bring the usual satays, spring rolls and dim sims but it is the hot pot garlic king prawns that win in this section although soya roast pork with sauteed onions is not far behind. Sharks fin and crab meat soup is finessed with “a tinge of ginger” which Manager Sheau May Chang explains is to counteract the fishiness of the pure broth. Four treasure duck is a highlight of the mains and is steamed and served with pork, prawns and vegetables. If there are two or more of you and some indecision in the air, consider one of the banquet menus – they are Pagoda’s specialty. For under $30 you will be treated to cream of lobster soup, ruby king prawns, sizzling fillet steak, lemon chicken, barbecue pork spare ribs, special fried rice and sweet and sour duck. A non traditional dessert of Baileys and roasted almond ice-cream will have you leaving with a satisfied smile.
Roz Taylor, December 2008